Still banned from Facebook ("try later" it says so I have no clue on time range or what constitutes "spam") so I will quit trying... Maybe try in a week then in a month. I need to pick a browser though as this one (Firefox) has a broken word completion system.
I realized that my diverse Facebook friends would not agree with my political and religious stances so I made everything opinion-free. When blogging, I have no concern with offending anyone... read it if you want or don't read it if you don't agree. I keep hearing propaganda against false assumptions of what people think the ideologies I subscribe to stand for. Because of this, labels are dangerous and misleading because people will think I am connecting with the ideologies that were put down in the propaganda they chose to believe. This will be very freeing but also a bit lonely. Interacting with people on Facebook is so much fun and deals with the inability to meet with people in person (due to my disabilities). Next step is to figure out how to make art that shows house construction details and do that on public library computers. I figure I have to quit using my tablet at home if I want any hope of fixing the screen as the screen is separating from the base a little each day and the cracked parts are getting more strangely angled. This leaves library or trying to use the default browser app in the Samsung bluray player (the keyboard works with the dongle).
I have an idea that is becoming more and more solid as the best option for renovating houses in Saskatchewan to be energy-self-sufficient with low tech means. Earthquakes are of a low likelihood but if they do happen, they will be strong. Tornadoes and plow winds on the other hand are very common. The whole city is sitting on 100-200 meters of clay which will likely turn liquid in an earthquake. I wish to store heat for a few months under the basement floor. The frost line is a good 6 feet below ground and may be lower in the future and tree roots cause a lot of foundation movement if they get under the foundation to dry out the clay then to direct rain water right to the dry parts when rains happen. Because of all these things, I have ideas on how to make a foundation that will drop 15-20 feet (4-6 meters) below the ground level to make a boat-like bottom to deal with soft soil and self-leveling systems to deal with uneven soil movements and ground isolation for an earthquake event then finally weight distribution and anchoring to deal with lift forces in strong winds. The problem is the movement of the house during an earthquake might damage the air-tight systems mounted on the outside of the house. For the cheapest renovations, it is best to just add insulation and air-tight layers to the outside of the structure part of the house and the inside of the house can remain untouched. I figure if this outer wall is a continuous beam from rafters to foundation footing, it does not need to be attached to the house itself except at the roof. If this beam system is designed for a specific level of deflection, the extra air when the house shifts in the direction of this wall during an earthquake can puff out the wall. The slightly shorter wall due to the bend can be compensated with the soffit part of the added wall angling downward. When the house moves away, the outer wall can deflect inward instead and again, the shorter bent wall compensated with the new soffit angle. I will have to build models and test them. A Canadian project made "sip" panels (SIP = Structural Insulated Panels) using mineral wool bats instead of foam insulation and attached inside and outside surfaces of the sip with I-joists. I figure I can use this method but maybe with a T-stud style beam instead of the engineered wood I-joists. Each panel will go as one piece from soffit to foundation base and be allowed to deflect a set amount and bend askew by that same amount to deal with house movement during an earthquake without losing air-sealing efforts between adjacent panels.